Kriss Motorcycle Products

Technical Support - Running Light Flasher for turn signals
Built on questions from users

Installation instructions must be followed exactly and all steps completed prior to applying power or the unit will be damaged. Connecting the unit backwards will damage the unit.

Problem

We are using this particular example to reveal what takes place more times than not.
We are providing this exchange so you can see the results of an incorrect installation. The customer bought a closeout model headlight modulator and returned it because he said it didn't work. We didn't find anything wrong and agreed to give him credit toward one of the newer models. He insisted that he knew what he was doing and did everything correctly.
Customer: I installed the replacement modulator tonight and it doesn't work either. It actually blows the motorcycle fuse when switched On. Prior to installing the unit I took great pains to insure it was connected properly and used a multi meter to confirm each wire of my circuit plug. I also tried it on my bench power supply and it makes the supply go into overload protection. I'm an electrical engineer so I understand electronics. Can I send this thing back for a refund? As much as I want it to work, I'm tired of messing with it.
Us: Sorry but that won't be possible. I can tell you without any doubt that you've connected the unit backwards. If it's blowing the fuse or putting a power supply in overload then you've blown the suppression diode in the circuit which prevents total destruction.
Note: We sent him a photo of the component in question and suggested he open the case and check the diode with an ohmmeter.
Customer: Thanks for the picture and explanation. I took the box apart and checked the diode. Not only was it shorted, but the top was blown off. I replaced the diode and hooked it up to my bench power supply. It worked fine. Before I hook it to the bike I'm going to go through the wiring again and double check things.

Be sure to check your battery, especially after all the testing on an installation.

Question: Unit fails to operate properly after installation. Installer stated he did not cut between the input and output wires and wondered if it was necessary to follow this step.
Answer: Yes. If output power is applied to the input circuit the device that controls the switching will develop a high speed oscillation and instantly self-destruct.

Question: One turn signal lights and the other does not. It came on briefly.
Answer: Further discussion revealed the bike had a load equalizer installed because the turn signal bulbs had been changed to LED's. The particular load equalizer is poorly designed and both turn signals are connected to ground through a load rather the separately. When both bulbs are on the load is doubled which overloaded the output circuit on the Running Light Flasher and blew that side. Solution, remove the load equalizer and install a turn signal flasher that is not load dependent to work.

Question: Rear turn signal on one side operates properly but on the other side the front signal is on.
Answer: One side is connected properly and the other is connected to the front part of the turn signal circuit rather than the rear.

Question: After installation the unit didn't flash correctly when the brakes were applied. Sent the unit in for testing which confirmed nothing wrong. After installing again the same problem resulted.
Answer: It turned out that the battery was run down during installation and testing and the engine wasn't started or the battery charged. If the battery voltage is below 12 volts (normal operating voltage is 13.8- 14.2) the brake sensing circuit voltage will be low and the unit won't function properly.

Question: Programming doesn't seem to work. I touched the wire and counted the flashes but unit didn't change program when the unit was turned back on.
Answer: After counting the programming flashes and disconnecting the program wire the power must be left on the unit for about five seconds before turning the power off and back on. This is because the programming is not completed for several seconds after the program wire is removed from +12 volts. Also, we've found that some people wait until after the desired number of program flashes are completed. The wire must be disconnected when the last flash comes on and disconnected rather than after the light goes out. The result is the program is now in the next program instead of the desired program.

Question: My right turn signal flashes when I brake but when the turn the signal is selected it doesn't flash. Left side works great.
Answer: If both lights are on in running light mode or flash when the brakes are applied then all outputs are ok. It sounds like the blue wire doesn't have a good connection to the right turn signal circuit. Use a test light and see if the blue wire is lighting when the turn signal flashes. If not it confirms no power to the input circuit.

Question:I hooked them up as per the schematic running my power supply off my running lights. When I tried to test the unit, it never went through a test phase. Next as I tried the turn signals, no matter if I use the right or left signal both rear turn signals come on, like a cross over, but only the correct front signal blinks.
Answer: If the yellow power wire doesn't have power provided then the turn signals can feed back through the mosfets (switching devices) and dimly light the opposite signal. Also, the unit will not do the self test if it's not turned on due to no power. Check to see that the Yellow wire does indeed have power on it when the bike is turned on. You may have a poor connection and not realize this problem. Also, please make sure the green ground wire has a good direct frame ground. It should be attached under one of the bolts usually found under the seat. Also, be sure to clean off any paint so the connection is metal to metal. Paint acts like an insulator. After numerous other tests the customer later reported that the Yellow power wire had a bad connection and when rectified the unit worked as advertised.

We all make mistakes. This person at least admitted he might have done something wrong from the start so we could help!
Question: I need Help. I hooked the unit up as per your instructions. Began the programming with the red wire attached to 12 volt source. The blinking began and I lost count, so I removed the red wire and waited awhile before turning the ignition off. Now I don't have anything except what I had before I started. Turn signals work, brake light works, no blinking. The lights went through a flashing sequence when I first installed. What can I do to fix this?
We wrote back... Are you getting voltage on the brown/yellow wire when the brakes are applied? Do you have voltage on the yellow wire when the bike is on? Is the green wire attached to a good frame ground through a bolt? Did you use a test light to verify the circuits? We suggested he check the battery after all the work on this problem.
He wrote: Good News, bad news.
1. I disconnected the 12 v yellow wire and re connected it. The unit started the slow flashing after I applied the red wire to 12 v.
2. The kicker is, I removed the red wire after ten flashes, looking for running/4-wigwag-flash. Then waited a good 10 sec before turning the power off.
3. Turned the power back on....Just red brake lights.
4. I know I'm close, but not sure what to do next......
5. I think your on to something. The battery died and is on charger for the night. thanks for the help.
Next morning: Got it! Thanks again. I had the brake-sense wire connected to the tail light instead of the brake light....Duh
Simple install once I got it right.... (he never said if he used a test light)
Answer: If the brake sense wire had steady voltage on it from the taillight then the unit would be in the brake light mode continually thinking the brakes were applied. Since it is programmed at our factory to stop flashing after a set sequence the lights would appear not to flash after it first came On. The unit wouldn't be in a resting state to allow proper programming and when attempted it's anyone's guess as to what program might be active.

Question: How do I bench test the Running Light Unit?
Answer: Connect the brown output wire to 12 volt bulb (even a test light is OK). Connect the violet output wire to another 12 volt bulb. Attach the green ground wire to battery negative first and then yellow to battery positive. The light should run through a self test and then settle at whatever program has been selected. You can even do the programming at this point in time. Touching the brown/yellow (yellow/red is used on the BLT and TBM) brake sense wire should cause the lights to perform the selected sequence. Without the brake wire attached, if the lights were selected for running mode, the lights will be on dim. Now, touch the orange wire to positive and remove. This should cause the unit to shut off the lights. Touching the wire intermittently will make the left bulb (brown wire) flash like a signal. The other bulb should remain off. After the orange wire is removed from positive voltage the lights will come back on after a couple of seconds. The same test should be performed with the blue wire which controls output through the violet wire. If the unit passes these tests the unit is functioning properly.

Always use a test light when checking circuits.